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Warped Door (Now with Pics)
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Smoked Up
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12 09 9:32 pm    Post subject: Warped Door (Now with Pics) Reply with quote

I am building a Lang style cooker. I am using a single door that runs the length of my 250 gal tank, rather than making two doors. Not only is it warped from top to bottom, it has warped over the length as well. I recall somewhere here, that somebody used all-thread to pull their door back in, but can't remember who it was, or where the thread is.

I am hoping that once the top to bottom is pulled in, the end to end warpage will go away. If I go the all thread route pulling the door, do I need to apply heat with a rosebud, and where? Help!!!


Last edited by Smoked Up on Wed Oct 14 09 10:56 am; edited 1 time in total
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DreChar
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12 09 9:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That was hillbilly http://www.thesmokering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17388

Take some angle and clamp it lenght wise on your door that should give it some strength and frame to keep from warping lengthwise again.

Dre
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k.a.m.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 13 09 7:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smoked Up, is the door already attached by the hinges to the cooker? Can you post some pics?
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hybrid
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 13 09 7:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You know after reading the several instances of this I have been thinking of an easy fix.

Why not cut a small access door and 2 intakes in the back and sides of the tank, fill it full of wood and set the bizatch on fire?

If you keep it full of fire and rip roaring blazing you should be able to "stress relieve" the tank to some degree. The small door in the back shouldnt be a problem warping and you can patch it and the intakes back in.

I dont know for sure it will work but I would imagine it would.

I know that when I find my tanks, Im trying it.
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Smoked Up
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 13 09 8:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

k.a.m. wrote:
Smoked Up, is the door already attached by the hinges to the cooker? Can you post some pics?


Yes, already attached.

I will post pics tomorrow.

I noticed something unique about the way this door warped. I used a hinge similar to what you make, only the pins are L-shaped rather than C-shaped like yours. When it warped, the hinge pins protruded slightly through the other side of the tube, where they had been flush before the warp.
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k.a.m.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 13 09 8:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smoked Up, so your door drew in on you? Another question, how much of the door was intact to the tank when you applied the hinges? I am guessing you cut the top then put hinges and then finished cutting the door?
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Smoked Up
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 13 09 9:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

k.a.m. wrote:
Smoked Up, so your door drew in on you? Another question, how much of the door was intact to the tank when you applied the hinges? I am guessing you cut the top then put hinges and then finished cutting the door?


That was my intent, but it didn't work out that way. I cut the sides with a zizz wheel and the top and bottom with a torch. Once cut, the kerf didn't allow enough clearance, so I trimmed one end of the lid with a torch.

I used 1/8" x 2" flat stock to trim out the door, placing it on the outside of the door. To attach it, I ran a 2" bead every 6" or so...alternating the bead every 12" giving it a chance to cool. I fitted the door with only the top piece attached. Once fitted and the hinges attached, I next attached the bottom, then the sides.
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k.a.m.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 13 09 10:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smoked Up, sorry for all the questions. I am trying to figure out when exactly the door went south on you. Was it while you were adding the flat bar? I guess with the pics we will see what we all can come up with to remedy your problem, it is easier when we can see the door.
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Smoked Up
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 13 09 11:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

k.a.m. wrote:
Smoked Up, sorry for all the questions.


No problem. I was trying to be as graphic in my description as I could, but you are right...pics will explain a lot.
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Smoked Up
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 14 09 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote












I shot this last one to show my weld(s), but you can see how the pin is drawn in to the barrel in the upper left. It amounts to about 1/8" on each side, so I figure it is about 1/4" or more overall.
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Smoked Up
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 14 09 11:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

One More.....


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k.a.m.
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 14 09 11:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smoked Up, this is how I would start my attack on your door. Since you have no stops behind the door it is able to fold back. I would place about a 6'' long wooden block on the cooker body behind the door for the door to rest on. This will allow you to pull down on the door and hopefully straighten it out. You could do the same thing with a piece of heavy angle iron with a block between it and the center of the door an two heavy C-clamps but I am afraid you will have to cut your hinges loose for that approach.
For the pulling out, you can try what I do and weld vertical beads on the inside of your door from the hinge to the bottom. Starting in the middle and alternating you way to the outside. I would not try this until I had the horizontal problem fixed.
You can also lay a piece of 1/4'' by 1'' flat bar a little longer than your door between the door and cooker chamber up by the hinge and use a chain and binder to pull the door back into its radius.
If you don't follow some of these let me know and I will try and sketch up some stuff.
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Smoked Up
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 14 09 11:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

k.a.m. wrote:
Smoked Up, this is how I would start my attack on your door. Since you have no stops behind the door...


Once I realized I had a problem, I stopped where I was. Any further steps would more than likely have to be undone.

I was thinking the lateral bow would go away after I fixed the seal in the bottom, but wasn't 100% sure. I think it is fixable though. I would cry if I had to scrap it at this point.

ETA: If I can relieve the lateral bow/warp before going further, I think that is the best plan.
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k.a.m.
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 14 09 11:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smoked Up, not having the stops is a good thing right now, because it is going to allow you to put something between the door and cooker to pull against.
Let me say this. Your door is very fixable, your not going to have to scrap it.
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Mikey P's BBQ
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15 09 2:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

long pipe clamps or chain and a binder work wonders...
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BabyHuey
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15 09 2:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smoked Up - You build looks good.....If you have some pipe clamps they work great for reforming your door to it's original state. I haven't read all the replies, sorry. You may have your answer - I don't have that much time right now. But pipe clamps are easy to come by, you can probably borrow some.....You need at least 2 but 3-4 is better. Your door will naturally want to go back to its original state but will need some persuasion. Put these clamps along the door and start with the worst side and gradually clamp. you will need to over bend the door a little because it will spring back when you turn it loose. Bend it some, then test it, bend it more if you need to. If you over bend it, it is easy to bring it back.....With these clamps you will be suprised how easy the door goes back in place


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BabyHuey
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15 09 2:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mikey P's BBQ wrote:
long pipe clamps or chain and a binder work wonders...


Laughing - we must have been posting at the same time Shocked
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k.a.m.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15 09 8:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BabyHuey and Mikey P's BBQ, he also has a horizontal warp. The door pulled in, I am wondering if the pipe clamps will pull the horizontal out when he tries to take out the up and down. I figured he should address that one first but squeezing in the door might straighten both. Plus with the straps in place I believe they are going to fold like a cheap lawn chair when he tries to squeeze the door.
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mtnside
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15 09 10:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its real easy,BFH,big friggin hammer LOL.That will straighten real easy,get a friend ,loop a chain on a hydraulic jack or jack-all and bend it where you went to bend it inside or out .The chain is your friend ,frustrating at times but you will be amazed at what is possible.Place the jack at your highest point of warpage,loop the chain and jack,just be careful not to overbend and have to do it more than twice.From the way you designed your hinges ,should be a snap.Dont be scared to use 2x4s for softening your pushes.
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k.a.m.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15 09 11:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mtnside, a good idea for the horizontal warp Wink Good thinking Very Happy
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