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Another question about Hinges

 
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ravrav7
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Joined: 31 Jan 2010
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 21 11 11:35 am    Post subject: Another question about Hinges Reply with quote

I am to the point where I want to finnish cutting my doors. I know I need to add the hinges first before finnishing the cutout of the doors. Couple questions.

1. Am I worried about the hinges being in the way of the extra strap that is added to elp the doors seal?

2. I saw the posting where the builder had the part in the middle of the doors that was able to move up and out of the way which is awesome incase you want to smoke a pig. How was that designed? Anyone know?

3. I am using a 250 gallon propane tank, is there any advice on making the front of my tank have a hinge where I could open it up and be able to slide my whole pig in that way?

4. Does anyone sell hinges? or do we all just make the barrel type? I was hoping to use something "different" just need some ideas. Pictures of HINGE ideas would be great.

thanks Guys as always, Ray in Sugar Land. USMC, I will post photos of the build as soon as I get a few more updates done.
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k.a.m.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 21 11 12:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ravrav7, why do you need to add hinges to your doors before finishing the cuts? I never do this, they only get in my way and if I have to tweak the door before mounting it is a lot easier than letting a hinge door dictate what I can or cannot do.
This door was just finished being cut.


Here its knocked in with a hammer.


Here I repositioned the door in the hole after it was cleaned up, I then tacked the lugs in place so I could affix the top strap.

If your hinges are loose and you add them to the door now you take a chance of the door sinking on you and not fitting properly. This is just my opinion on adding hinges to hold a door in place.

I like home made hinges from 1/2'' rod and SCH 80 1/2'' pipe. But there are several barrel hinges on the market that are nice.

Here is a link to purplewg's cooker his doors split like you want.
http://www.thesmokering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=19553

Also ckone modded his company cooker to do the same.
http://www.thesmokering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=411138&highlight=#411138
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ckone
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 21 11 12:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i was going to point you towards the mods I did, but kam already did. let me know if you have any questions.

Thanks Kam for reminding me about that thread of mine - I need to add the pictures of the removable center support.
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Big Tone
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 21 11 2:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey ravrav7, I used the store bought barrel hinges and they work great although making them is just as good. The top strap is fastened inside on the the tank and doesn't move with the door. You can see it in the hinge pic. I did go with a single door though on a 5ft x 30d tank. A properly placed counterweight will give it an easy lift. I think the two door design has its advantages, but for me it seemed to be just another place to try and seal. FWIW. Smile





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Wreckless
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 21 11 7:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ravrav7, there are more than a few ways here to get the hinging done as far as design goes. k.a.m.'s speak for themselves, they obviously work well and they look great, an excellent combination. Like many here, it would be tough to go wrong following his lead. Straying off to a bit wilder, Buzz_Backer has some awesome looking hinges on his signature build. When I was looking for something out of the ordinary there was a build going on by Slapout. His were a take off from some made by HillBilly Smoker I believe. Here is a pic of my version of those two. The fulcrum point was a little too high on what I built for a horizontal hinge but the concept is there. I still use the basic design often tho on my vertical hinges.

The bullet hinges found in farm and ranch stores, welding supply, etc also work wonders and are dirt cheap imho for what you get. A quick purchase and some welding and you are off to your next task.
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ravrav7
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 21 11 9:32 pm    Post subject: Hinges Reply with quote

Thanks for the pointers! I guess I always thought you should mount the hinges prior to finnishing the cut so the diors dont fall. Oh well thats why I am here, to look and learn. Hey KAM do you have pics of your doors in the finnished state that u could see. Thanks again
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ravrav7
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 21 11 9:37 pm    Post subject: Hinges Reply with quote

Thanks for the pointers! I guess I always thought you should mount the hinges prior to finnishing the cut so the diors dont fall. Oh well thats why I am here, to look and learn. Hey KAM do you have pics of your doors in the finnished state that u could see. Thanks again
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k.a.m.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 21 11 10:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ravrav7, in my signature build the R/F has them.
I hope these help.Smile
Also here is a link to a backyard offset I built a while back.
http://thesmokering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17781

Here is a small grill I built for my daughter and son-in-law.
http://thesmokering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=26922
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Smokin Mike
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 21 11 10:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

k.a.m., If you cold cut the door do you think you would have similar problems with line-up by pre-mounting the hinges? Just curious.
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ckone
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 21 11 11:59 pm    Post subject: Re: Hinges Reply with quote

ravrav7 wrote:
Thanks for the pointers! I guess I always thought you should mount the hinges prior to finnishing the cut so the diors dont fall.. Thanks again


There are some that go that. I did not do it on a build out of a propane tank, using a weld on version of a normal door hinge, and did not have any real problems I did do that modifying a 3/8 wall pipe fire box, using the barrel hinges, and felt it helped with aligning the hinges.
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k.a.m.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 22 11 12:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smokin Mike wrote:
k.a.m., If you cold cut the door do you think you would have similar problems with line-up by pre-mounting the hinges? Just curious.

For me it is not a matter of whether the cut is cold or torched. It has to do with what kind of bind the door section and cooker body are in prior to the cut. If you apply the hinges before the door is fully cut out and the door goes stupid on you sometimes the only option you have is cut the hinges loose and fix the problem. With the door loose I can adjust it in all directions prior to applying my hinges. Some members have good luck with the weld before cutting option I prefer not to test the waters. Its a preference thing. Smile
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Smokin Mike
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 22 11 12:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

k.a.m. wrote:
Smokin Mike wrote:
k.a.m., If you cold cut the door do you think you would have similar problems with line-up by pre-mounting the hinges? Just curious.

For me it is not a matter of whether the cut is cold or torched. It has to do with what kind of bind the door section and cooker body are in prior to the cut. If you apply the hinges before the door is fully cut out and the door goes stupid on you sometimes the only option you have is cut the hinges loose and fix the problem. With the door loose I can adjust it in all directions prior to applying my hinges. Some members have good luck with the weld before cutting option I prefer not to test the waters. Its a preference thing. Smile


Thanks! I will definitely consider this prior to making a cut.
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ravrav7
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 22 11 2:04 am    Post subject: cooker grates or shelves Reply with quote

I am sorry to ask so many questions but, what are most of you using for your slide out cooking shelves? I saw KAM said he used #9 x3/4 flat, what size angle iron do you use for the rails inside the pit and what size do you use for making each slide out shelf?

thanks again, going after work to make a purchase on supplies, thats why I am asking.
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ckone
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 22 11 2:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used 3/4 sq tube for my grates with #9 expanded, i believe it was 1" angle for the rails (but may have been 1.5). I think your best bet is what ever size angle holds the full width of your grate frame material.
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slapout
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 22 11 2:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As Wreckless mentioned, I borrowed this idea from Hillbilly. It helps to have a good friend with a CNC.






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Wreckless
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 22 11 2:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

for grates..3/4 #9 expanded metal or some shaker grate when i can get my hands on it. Some perf plate looked cool and worked well too.
Good to see you in the cooker section Slapout. I figured you were out on an extended safari hunting wild things to put in your cooker. Very Happy
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k.a.m.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 22 11 3:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

On smaller cookers I use 1'' x 1'' x 1/8'' angle iron all the way around. On the wider deeper racks say 30'' I use 1.5'' x 1.5'' x 3/16'' angle iron for rails and 1'' x 1'' x 1/4'' angle for the frames.
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slapout
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 22 11 3:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wreckless, I wish I had been on safari. The closest thing was the duck hunt in Glendale, AZ last week. War Eagle by the way. Been a busy year for me. We had our second child last week so no smoker projects recently. Hope all is well.
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drMugato



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PostPosted: Sat Jan 22 11 6:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I read in another post they were using hinges similar to http://www.mcfrugal.com/products/Bullet-Hinge-Weldable-With-Grease-Zerk.html . Or you could use a winged hinge.
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watchado
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 24 11 11:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Look through my build in the link in my signature. I welded the top strap for the door to the tank and the door closes underneath it. Worked out pretty good and seals really well. First one I've had that dosen't leak if it's out in the rain.
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