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StickPigBBQ BBQ Fan

Joined: 06 Sep 2009 Posts: 295 Location: Natchitoches, LA
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Posted: Tue Oct 25 11 8:48 pm Post subject: Trailer Building/Modification Question |
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I am looking for an old welding trailer to turn into a small bbq rig to take to competitions with me. I have found some that need minor repairs and the search continues. Now for the questions.
1. What criteria would you use to qualify a weld as being acceptable for trailer building and/or modifying? I have done the cut and bend test on my MIG welds before and have had them all (recently anyways) pass the backyard test but I am still a bit apprehensive about if they are strong enough for a trailer. Cause if I dont get it right, I am sure I will find out when the trailer is falling behind me in my rearview mirror
2. I plan on using a Lincoln Power MIG 140 to do the additions and modifications to the trailer, (on the top deck not the frame or structure of the trailer in this instance). Am I ok with flux core? Or should I use gas? I have both, just not sure if one is better for more critical welds than the other, I have heard both sides from others and am not real sure which way to go with it.
3. Assuming that its a welding trailer or boat style trailer that I get, what thickness of plate should I use for the decking on top that everything will sit on? The offset I am building is small and will weigh only about 400-450lbs when finished. Estimated total weight of equipment on the trailer will be approx 800-900lbs. My first thought was 3/16" plate, but if I can get away with 1/8" I may go that route mainly to save on weight.
Thanks and as usual, any other comments, tips or tricks you got let me know!
Josh
P.S. to caveat, I am not going to try and build this trailer but I do want to build one in the future so thats why I included "building" in it. _________________ A proud member of da WHO DAT NATION!!!
NB Offset Smoker-Modified
"The Mustang"- http://www.thesmokering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=54065
Offset Smoker Build....In the planning stages.....
......if you cant drink it, SMOKE IT! |
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k.a.m. BBQ Super All Star

Joined: 12 Dec 2007 Posts: 21393 Location: Southeast Texas.
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Posted: Wed Oct 26 11 12:01 am Post subject: |
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Josh,
1. What criteria would you use to qualify a weld as being acceptable for trailer building and/or modifying? I have done the cut and bend test on my MIG welds before and have had them all (recently anyways) pass the backyard test but I am still a bit apprehensive about if they are strong enough for a trailer. Cause if I dont get it right, I am sure I will find out when the trailer is falling behind me in my rearview mirror
In this case there is no criteria that someone can tell you unless you bring your coupon to a test area for their bend test. You either know your welds will hold or you do not. When making structural welds training will dictate when to run certain passes or procedures this will separate the knowing confident welder and the welder that has doubts. Personally I would not build a trailer for the road with a 140 machine you will have to bevel each weld and make multiple passes for certain penetration.
2. I plan on using a Lincoln Power MIG 140 to do the additions and modifications to the trailer, (on the top deck not the frame or structure of the trailer in this instance). Am I ok with flux core? Or should I use gas? I have both, just not sure if one is better for more critical welds than the other, I have heard both sides from others and am not real sure which way to go with it.
In my opinion the additions if they are not structural can be done with any mix you desire, cookers do not really have critical areas for welds so if you want to use a gas mix or flux core I am sure you will be fine.
3. Assuming that its a welding trailer or boat style trailer that I get, what thickness of plate should I use for the decking on top that everything will sit on? The offset I am building is small and will weigh only about 400-450lbs when finished. Estimated total weight of equipment on the trailer will be approx 800-900lbs. My first thought was 3/16" plate, but if I can get away with 1/8" I may go that route mainly to save on weight.
If your not walking on the trailer and your cross members will hit the key components for support then I would use 1/8" decking. _________________ Always remember slow and steady wins the race.
Reverse Flow
Hybrid Cooker |
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Charro Newbie

Joined: 13 Oct 2011 Posts: 47 Location: San Antonio, TX
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Posted: Sat Nov 12 11 1:15 pm Post subject: |
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| I'm with K.A.M. on his responses. All I would add is the self shielding flux core will give you a bit more penetration, so you'll get a little extra bump out of that 140 - lots of clean up afterwards though. And yeah, don't rely on the deck to support your cooker, it will flex and crack. |
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cupped wings Newbie
Joined: 14 Aug 2011 Posts: 30
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Posted: Mon Nov 14 11 12:47 am Post subject: |
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| Spot on KAM |
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TheNorwegian
Joined: 04 Apr 2012 Posts: 18 Location: Western Washington
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Posted: Fri Apr 13 12 10:56 pm Post subject: |
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I know i'm diggin up old news here. But there are a couple things I want to add.
One thing that many people don't take into account when welding with trailers. It's not like welding something that is going to sit on your deck and might get rolled, lifted, or moved every couple of months. Trailers experience vibration, bouncing, and flex. these all need to be taken into account when you start thinking about welding stuff onto a trailer. The rigidity of the frame, the size of the material, the weight of the load, the height of the load. Etc.
No matter what you build to place on, or attach to a trailer, it will experence these forces.
From your OP you should be able to do what you're asking with the machine you have. Just make sure that your welds are done properly. Welds typically don't just fail outright, The frailure is cause by vibration and flexing that happens over time. Make sure you're inspecting you welds regularly. Not just right before and right after the first trip. _________________ There are no problems, there are only solutions. It's our job to figure out the right one. |
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spectrascott
Joined: 27 Mar 2012 Posts: 9 Location: The Great Northwest
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Posted: Fri Apr 20 12 3:51 am Post subject: |
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| Once again a old thread but I do have to say that I would not use self shielding flux core wire on a trailer. I weld with both wire and stick and in all my years flux core wire is just to brittle when it is all said and done. Only wire that is flux core that I would trust is NR32 and if you have the welder to run it well you have all sorts of other options also. |
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iwboomer

Joined: 30 Mar 2012 Posts: 2
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Posted: Fri Apr 20 12 7:10 pm Post subject: |
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| spectrascott wrote: | | Once again a old thread but I do have to say that I would not use self shielding flux core wire on a trailer. I weld with both wire and stick and in all my years flux core wire is just to brittle when it is all said and done. Only wire that is flux core that I would trust is NR32 and if you have the welder to run it well you have all sorts of other options also. | I assume you are referring to NR 232 because it meets seismic requirements, NR 233 does also. The smallest you can get 232 is .068, and 233 is 1/16, I would think wire of this size would run too hot for trailer building. Personally I am contemplating some smaller rollers for my LN-25 and running some Innershield NR 211 in .045 for cooker and trailer building... I am currently set-up for 5/64 wire and the minimum thickness is 3/8, it is nothing to blow a hole in 1 inch steel while establishing the puddle...
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spectrascott
Joined: 27 Mar 2012 Posts: 9 Location: The Great Northwest
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Posted: Sat Apr 21 12 5:11 am Post subject: |
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| iwboomer wrote: | | spectrascott wrote: | | Once again a old thread but I do have to say that I would not use self shielding flux core wire on a trailer. I weld with both wire and stick and in all my years flux core wire is just to brittle when it is all said and done. Only wire that is flux core that I would trust is NR32 and if you have the welder to run it well you have all sorts of other options also. | I assume you are referring to NR 232 because it meets seismic requirements, NR 233 does also. The smallest you can get 232 is .068, and 233 is 1/16, I would think wire of this size would run too hot for trailer building. Personally I am contemplating some smaller rollers for my LN-25 and running some Innershield NR 211 in .045 for cooker and trailer building... I am currently set-up for 5/64 wire and the minimum thickness is 3/8, it is nothing to blow a hole in 1 inch steel while establishing the puddle...
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Yes that is what I am refering to. I do structural welding for a living. I do use 71-T1 dual shield in .045 a lot and like the welds. I will pull my millermatic onto a job site and run that wire over the 232 many a time. A bigger machine to pull around but it cleans up easier and welds a lot nicer. I do use hard wire a lot in ornamental situations like hand rails and small items. |
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cupped wings Newbie
Joined: 14 Aug 2011 Posts: 30
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Posted: Sat Apr 28 12 2:26 am Post subject: |
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NR211 .045 is a good all position self shielded wire, just remember 1 thing. With that paticular wire you are limited to a material thickness of 5/16".  |
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MikeBuiltWhat Newbie
Joined: 25 Nov 2011 Posts: 35
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Posted: Mon Apr 30 12 12:27 am Post subject: |
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| iwboomer you shouldnt have any problems with the NR211-MP 045 in that LN-25 I've been using it in my Suitcase 12RC. been welding 1/8 to 3/8 with no problems. on the light stuff is set it for 15.5 volts and 90ipm. tried the recomendation from Lincoln and it had to much voltage and wasnt leaving any flux behind. oh my power source is a Trailblazer 302 EFI. |
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