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Welding corner joints of fire box

 
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CWCW



Joined: 06 Feb 2012
Posts: 22

PostPosted: Mon Feb 20 12 8:48 pm    Post subject: Welding corner joints of fire box Reply with quote

Was doing some reading (learning) online and ran across a webpage with many different tools and information on welding. I came across a piece about corner joints and welding them together.

It was saying that a flush corner joint should not be welded if the metal thickness is more than 12 gauge.

A half open corner joint was "ok" for thicker metals with moderate loads and that a full open corner was best for thick metals in high load situations.

How do you guys weld up your corners on your fire boxes? flush, half open or full open joint?
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Coz
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Joined: 27 Jan 2007
Posts: 301
Location: Montello,Wi

PostPosted: Tue Feb 21 12 12:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like to match the inside corners so that you have nice corner to weld and you should be able to get penetration thru.
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k.a.m.
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Joined: 12 Dec 2007
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Location: Southeast Texas.

PostPosted: Tue Feb 21 12 1:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As Coz mentioned match the inside corners then run a good root, fill and cap. Wink
In this pic you see the vertical corner that looks welded it is actually the outside penetration.

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Blazer
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Joined: 07 Sep 2011
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Location: southeast ohio

PostPosted: Tue Feb 21 12 2:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

In this pic you see the vertical corner that looks welded it is actually the outside penetration.
+1 on that, If you can do that you will never have to worry about your corners or anything else.... Turn it up and burn it in!!!!
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bnew17
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Joined: 15 Feb 2011
Posts: 74
Location: Dublin, Ga

PostPosted: Tue Feb 21 12 3:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rookie here. So which one of these crude drawings would be how yall are talking about is the ideal way to weld the firebox together?


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gandrfab
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Joined: 07 Feb 2012
Posts: 34
Location: Sanford fl

PostPosted: Tue Feb 21 12 3:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The one on top, corner to corner. Cool
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Toysrme



Joined: 01 Mar 2012
Posts: 11

PostPosted: Thu Mar 01 12 3:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bnew17 wrote:
rookie here. So which one of these crude drawings would be how yall are talking about is the ideal way to weld the firebox together?

all three are equally acceptable and equally as strong. the only thing that changes is how the joint is welded.

Keep in mind as long as the MINIMUM thickness of the welds is equal to the thickness of the smallest piece of base metal. The weld will be stronger than the base metal. (provided the weld is sound and the filler metal is chosen correctly)


Joint 1 is an open corner joint.
This is welded in all processes in the same manner. You simply weld evenly down the joint.
*tying both sides together
*You should have minor burn-through on the inside of the joint. If you do a good job, it will be an even width start to finish. 1/8" +/-1/16" consistent width on the typical 3/8-1/2" material used would be ideal


Joints 2 and 3 are flush corner joints. These may be welded in a very large number of ways.
Inside Fillet weld (just like you would a basic T joint. easiest of welds)
Flush beveled or grooved, inside or outside corner joint
Full beveled or grooved, inside or outside corner joint (one piece of base metal or both)
Half beveled or grooved, inside or outside corner joint (one piece of base metal or both)
The joints may be closed (pushed all the way together) or open (leave a 1/16" to 1/8" gap) depending on your skill to break down the joint edge & tie them together.
Or any combination of the above. (again, provided the total added weld thickness equals the thickness of the smallest piece of base metal)

The three easiest for a newbie would be
Inside fillet weld (joint 2/3)
Open corner joint (joint 1)
Double bevel on one piece (Joint 2/3) Bevel one piece with 30-45* edges on both sides. Then weld the inside & outside beveled joints flush.





If you're going to bevel something, leave a "landing". As in, do not leave a sharp edge. Grind the edge off so that it's 1/16-1/8" thick and the arc doesn't instantly blow off the sharp edge
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