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Bending a door
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JoeD
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Joined: 09 Dec 2007
Posts: 231

PostPosted: Thu Feb 21 08 8:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If that doesn't work; then i don't know what would work. Smile

My project
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FATFRANK
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Joined: 27 Nov 2007
Posts: 96
Location: Wichita Falls, TX

PostPosted: Thu Feb 21 08 9:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hvac81 wrote:
FATFRANK wrote:
Northsmoke wrote:
By the way little fella's. How do we get stove rope or gasket to stay on or stick to the door. Rolling Eyes Im at a loss!
I'll be gettin a diamomd plate Fatty soon, bet they figure out of to make the darn thing stay in place!
But I do need to find the asnwer to this problem, sews I can finish the project Im working.


I usually rivet them on with a washer under the rivet head.


Like so?


I guess I missed this post, but thats the way that I do it. Works well for me.



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FATFRANK
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Joined: 27 Nov 2007
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Location: Wichita Falls, TX

PostPosted: Thu Feb 21 08 9:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have done quite a bit of metal work in the past and I would like to point out one thing to those who haven't done much.

Be extra careful when you are using chains, jacks etc to put a lot of tension on metal. Wear safety gear ( gloves, eye protection) if things pop loose, they aren't very forgiving to the body.
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TOPS BBQ
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Joined: 21 Jul 2007
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Location: Fresno, CA

PostPosted: Thu Feb 21 08 1:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is some excellent info! I am by no means capable of doing these, but I can relay information to people who can. Nice work guys.
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KC Boss
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 22 08 12:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am going to start selling these. It is a bolt from Lowe's. Just to the right of the beer. If the thing slipped it would fly to Brazil there is so much potential energy there.

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fastcat
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Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 160
Location: monroe, north carolina

PostPosted: Fri Feb 22 08 11:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

whats the purpose of that bolt
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bigabyte
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Joined: 09 Jul 2005
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 23 08 3:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm guessing it has something to do with the beer? Confused
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saintjoemo
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Joined: 29 Sep 2007
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24 08 3:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a thermometer like that in my fridge. Are you keeping track of the beer temp?
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divechief



Joined: 21 Sep 2007
Posts: 20
Location: Sevierville, Tennessee

PostPosted: Sun Feb 24 08 8:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good advice FATFRANK. I'm a firefighter and have used the "JAWS OF LIFE" a number of times. When metal pops, quite often it does not give much of a warning. Be extra carefull around metal under heavy tension.
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KC Boss
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24 08 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The bolt keeps the bottom have pushed in so my racks don't fall through. When I got the damn thing it was bent so me and the O came up with a couple of ideas. This one looked the best. Can't decide if I should paint it or not. If you need some close ups let me know. I can get it from all angles. I am a great photographer.
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marshallbbq
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Joined: 02 Dec 2007
Posts: 163
Location: Knoxville Tn

PostPosted: Mon Feb 25 08 4:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

FATFRANK wrote:
hvac81 wrote:
FATFRANK wrote:
Northsmoke wrote:
By the way little fella's. How do we get stove rope or gasket to stay on or stick to the door. Rolling Eyes Im at a loss!
I'll be gettin a diamomd plate Fatty soon, bet they figure out of to make the darn thing stay in place!
But I do need to find the asnwer to this problem, sews I can finish the project Im working.


I usually rivet them on with a washer under the rivet head.


Like so?


I guess I missed this post, but thats the way that I do it. Works well for me.






Fatfrank, where do yo get you gasket material?
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FATFRANK
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Joined: 27 Nov 2007
Posts: 96
Location: Wichita Falls, TX

PostPosted: Fri Mar 07 08 4:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I buy the gasket material from mcmaster.com. Do a search for tadpole gasket. I put the rivets through the skinny part and it doesn't affect the seal. Sorry for taking so long to post a reply. I guess I missed this one also.

Feel free to pm me if you have any questions.
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kayrondad
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Joined: 12 Oct 2007
Posts: 81
Location: Oakley, CA

PostPosted: Tue Jan 18 11 2:00 pm    Post subject: later reader Reply with quote

well, as I am reading every article I can on here as I plan to build my smoker with my 120, 150 an d175???? I learn that the doors can "spring". could someone please explain this and what causes it and what may keep it from happening to begin with?
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k.a.m.
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Joined: 12 Dec 2007
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Location: Southeast Texas.

PostPosted: Tue Jan 18 11 7:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kayrondad, first I will start with the number one culprit and that is heat. Cutting the doors out with a torch or plasma and not letting them cool periodically can cause warping. I leave the four corners top and bottom middle and the left and right middle intact until the door is completely cooled then finish the cuts.
The next heat issue comes after the door has been cut and that is the door seals. welding these up will cause a door to pull outward its the nature of the beast.
Now comes the sad truth, some pipe will naturally spring when cut, the same goes with tanks and rolled steel. It will depend on the source of the roll and how close a fit it was when the seam was welded. If the piece was pulled together while welding the piece will most likely spring where ever you cut it. The tweaking of doors comes with the trade, some are tough and some are not that bad. Some builders are picky others are not, so a little out might not bother them. I hope this helps. Smile
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QTEX
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Joined: 23 Jan 2012
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 07 12 11:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Adding late to this party, lol. Adding this in case it helps some one else. I am starting a new build next week and actually came here today looking for the answer of how to prevent it in the first place. A welder buddy says that plasma wont warp them but I've seen some of his and it does a little too.
I used high temp gasket maker silicone on one I built a few years ago. What I did was wipe the edge of the pit doors liberally with grease and cleaned the door edges (opposite of the seal) with thinner to dry them good. Laid a generous bead of silicone and closed the doors. My thinking was that the pit would expand a bit under heat so I lit a small fire in it and let it warm up about 175 to 200 degrees and then let it cool over night. Next day opened the doors and trimmed any excess that squished out with a razor blade, looked good. The other great thing about silicone is that if you do it before the paint job you can paint right on it and it sticks good. Of course this trick is for small leaks and gaps not large ones mentioned above, 1/2 inch! wow, thats alot.
EDIT to add that the silicone stayed in place for 12 years till I sold the pit, really worked good
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k.a.m.
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Joined: 12 Dec 2007
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Location: Southeast Texas.

PostPosted: Tue Feb 07 12 11:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like black high temp RTV for a final seal on doors that are troublesome. I will add that being liberal with the grease will actually hinder the drying of the silicone. There was a member a while back that ended up with a mess and once he backed off the grease he ended up with a nice seal.
Also let the door weight do its job, if you push down on a door that is sprung the silicone will pull back causing spikes. I just ease the doors down and walk away.
I hope this helps. Smile
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QTEX
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Joined: 23 Jan 2012
Posts: 84

PostPosted: Tue Feb 07 12 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes sir, black rtv works great. How do you keep it from sticking on both sides with out some slippery stuff?
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Wreckless
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Joined: 15 May 2009
Posts: 2292
Location: New Braunfels, TX

PostPosted: Tue Feb 07 12 10:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

QTEX wrote:
Yes sir, black rtv works great. How do you keep it from sticking on both sides with out some slippery stuff?

A light coat of P.A.M. and do like k.a.m. Cool
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Mikeydidit
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Joined: 27 Sep 2011
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 07 12 10:30 pm    Post subject: Tanks are bad about rolling in Reply with quote

A while back I cut open a 250 tank with a sawsall. So it wasn't heat that made the doors roll inside when i finished. It was the natural spring of the rolled steel that took over.

I read another post that someone had the same problem and KAM helped them out. He took a piece of pipe and placed it at the areas that needed to be moved in. Then placed a chain and binder around the tank. Then (in my case) I had to bang on it with a hammer until it straightened out. Just hit on the areas that need to move. Do this a little bit at a time and try not to over correct. It doesn't take too long and it made mine nice and even.
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k.a.m.
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Joined: 12 Dec 2007
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Location: Southeast Texas.

PostPosted: Wed Feb 08 12 12:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

QTEX wrote:
Yes sir, black rtv works great. How do you keep it from sticking on both sides with out some slippery stuff?

I use a light coat of Pam spray or cooking oil. To much slippery stuff will break down the RTV.
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